Archie A. Casbarian
1936-2009
If Archie Casbarian hadn't come along when he did, and if
he hadn't borne a passing resemblance to Count Arnaud Cazenave,
and if he wasn't of Armenian heritage, Arnaud's would very
likely not exist today.
But Arnaud's is there, thriving, one of the grandest of
the grand dining establishments of the French Quarter, with
a style and cuisine so distinctive that nobody who dines
there could doubt that he's in New Orleans.
Archie Casbarian, however, has left his restaurant. The
urbane, Egypt-born hotelier and restaurateur died Saturday,
January 10 in a Metairie hospice after a painful fight with
esophageal cancer. He was 72.
After attending British schools
in Egypt (he had no trace of an accent), he had distinguished
career managing luxury hotels in Europe, the Middle East,
the Caribbean, and the United States. Archie turned up in
New Orleans as the general manager of the Royal Orleans and
the Royal Sonesta hotels in the 1970s. Everywhere he went,
having a spectacular restaurant on the property was essential
in his plan for the hotel.
He had his eye on Arnaud's for a long time. It was across
the street from the Sonesta, an enormous property with a
glowing history and a very distressing present. In the late
1970s, Arnaud's was barely operating. He was one of many
who attempted to persuade the Count's daughter, Germaine
Cazenave Wells, to sell the restaurant. What made Archie
successful was no doubt his savoir-faire, but his background
helped, to. Germaine, infamous for her disdain for people
of nearly every ethnicity, had nothing on Armenians. Especially
this one, who sat there smoking a cigar, just like her father
did, and with a smile that reminded her of her dad.
Archie performed a thorough, inspired restoration of the
badly-maintained dining rooms, and opened for business on
February 28, 1978. He brought in a talented French chef to
rework many of the dishes on Arnaud's interminable menu.
Those who remembered the restaurant's glory years were pleased
to find a menu full of the old classics, but better than
they'd ever been made before.
It was years and millions of dollars before the entire restaurant
was back in usable shape. Then the recession of the early
1980s came, and threatened Archie's investment. He came up
with an idea that became legendary in the restaurant industry.
He sold tables in the restaurant, along with long-term credits
for dining there, for $10,000 each. The gambit saved Arnaud's,
and the plaques announcing whose table was whose are still
on the walls.
I knew Archie Casbarian well, and dined with him many times
over the years. Talking with him always kept one a little
off balance. He had a way of being jaded and creative at
the same time. Cynical and positive, fatalistic and full
of plans and ideas. He'd seen it all before, but saw new
possibilities. On top of that, he was thoroughly knowledgeable
about the hospitality business.
His restaurant reflected his own sparkling personal style.
He was well-dressed and sophisticated, a delightful conversationalist
who loved a good story, whether he heard it or told it. He
also loved good cigars, martinis, wines and food.
Arnaud's was his masterpiece. It may be the finest restoration
of an old restaurant in the annals of the business, performed
with magnificent taste and a clear understanding of Arnaud's
historical significance.
Archie is survived by his wife Jane, his son Archie Jr.
and daughter Katy. All have long been active in the restaurant,
whose continuation is assured. Archie set a stringent standard
for Arnaud's, one that will carry the Bienville Street landmark
forward into its second century and beyond. He has known
few peers in New Orleans restaurant history.
by Tom Fitzmorris
www.NOMENU.com
